Over decades, the Taiwan Tea Research and Extension Station (TTES / 茶業改良場) has scientifically bred and selected tea cultivars specifically suited to Taiwan's unique climate, dramatic mountain topography, and distinct seasonal microclimates.
The goal was never merely to create new botanical varieties for the sake of cataloging. It was to develop plants that could thrive natively across Taiwan's mist-covered slopes and express unforgettable, nuanced flavors in the cup.
While heirloom cultivars carry the legacy of early migration, bred varieties represent the scientific mastery of modern Taiwanese agriculture. Here is an overview of Taiwan’s defining tea cultivars.
| Cultivar | Also Known As | Aroma & Flavor Expression | Primary Styles |
|---|---|---|---|
| TTES No. 12 | Jin Xuan · 金萱 | Milky lactone sweetness, buttered pastry, gentle flora | High Mountain Oolong, Light Roast |
| TTES No. 13 | Cui Yu · 翠玉 | Fresh gardenia, wild ginger lily, crisp and aromatic | Floral Baozhong, Green Oolong |
| TTES No. 18 | Ruby · 紅玉 | Natural menthol, warm cinnamon spice, dark plum | Sun Moon Lake Black Tea |
| Qing Xin | 青心烏龍 (Green Heart) | Aristocratic orchid, lingering mountain chi (冷香), deep depth | High Mountain Oolong, Dong Ding |
TTES No. 12 — Jin Xuan (金萱)
Officially registered in 1981 under the leadership of Dr. Wu Zhen-Duo (often revered as the father of modern Taiwanese tea), TTES No. 12 was lovingly named Jin Xuan in honor of his grandmother.
Jin Xuan is celebrated worldwide for its naturally soft, creamy mouthfeel and distinctive pastry-like notes. When lightly oxidized and rolled into high-mountain spheres, it releases notes reminiscent of fresh cream, warm butter, and white meadow flowers.
Natural Lactones vs. Artificial Flavoring: Genuine artisan Jin Xuan has a whisper-soft, natural milky fragrance derived from organic lactones inherent to the cultivar. If a tea smells overwhelmingly like synthetic vanilla or sweetened condensed milk the moment you open the bag, it has likely been artificially flavored. Real Jin Xuan is refined, elegant, and balances creamy texture with crisp green mountain sweetness.
TTES No. 13 — Cui Yu (翠玉)
Registered alongside Jin Xuan, TTES No. 13 (Cui Yu) was named after Dr. Wu’s mother. Where Jin Xuan is soft and rounded, Cui Yu is radiant, bright, and deeply floral.
Cui Yu is prized for its piercing, crystalline floral perfume — often bringing to mind wild ginger lilies, fresh jasmine, and freshly cut mountain grass. It has a vibrant acidity that cuts cleanly across the palate, making it a favorite for lightly oxidized styles such as Wen Shan Baozhong or lightly processed rolled oolongs.
TTES No. 18 — Ruby (紅玉)
Taiwanese tea is famous for oolong, but TTES No. 18 (Ruby / 紅玉) proves that Taiwan’s terroir can produce world-class black teas (*Hong Cha*).
Ruby is a botanical marvel: a cross between Burma large-leaf tea (*Camellia sinensis var. assamica*) and wild native Taiwanese mountain tea (*Camellia sinensis f. formosensis*). Cultivated predominantly in the mist-veiled basin around Sun Moon Lake in Nantou, Ruby 18 displays notes found in virtually no other black tea on earth:
- Cooling Menthol & Eucalyptus — A refreshing, crystalline top note on the inhale.
- Sweet Cinnamon & Clove — A spicy, comforting mid-palate structure.
- Macerated Red Cherries & Ripe Plum — A luscious, lingering sweetness in the throat.
Qing Xin Oolong — The Heirloom Benchmark (青心烏龍)
While the numbered TTES cultivars showcase modern agricultural innovation, Qing Xin (Green Heart Oolong) remains the venerable benchmark against which all Taiwanese oolongs are measured.
Brought from Mainland China’s Wuyi and Anxi regions in the 19th century, Qing Xin is notoriously temperamental to cultivate. It yields less per harvest, demands meticulous pest management, and requires fragile, cold-climate conditions. Yet farmers in Alishan, Shan Lin Xi, and Lishan refuse to replace it.
Why? Because of its irreplaceable elegance. Qing Xin produces a deep, layered liquor with a delicate orchid floral fragrance, unmatched silky texture, and the celebrated Shan Tou Qi (山頭氣 / mountain breath) that lingers in the throat long after drinking.
The Cultivar Is Only the Beginning
A cultivar gives a tea its genetic blueprint and aromatic potential, but it does not dictate everything you taste.
The very same Jin Xuan or Qing Xin leaves will reveal wildly different personalities depending on:
- Elevation & Weather: Leaves grown above 1,500 meters accumulate sugars and amino acids slowly under dense mist and cool sunshine.
- Soil Health: Rich mountain humus and mineral-dense slate impart structural body and finish.
- The Tea Maker's Touch: The precision of solar withering, wave bruising (*yao qing*), fixation, and charcoal roasting.
This dynamic interplay is why Taiwanese tea continues to captivate: The cultivar gives the tea its character. The land gives it depth. And the tea maker brings everything together into your cup.
← Back to Tea Journal